It was exactly a year ago, when one of the biggest garment factory accidents in history took place in Dhaka, Bangladesh on April 24, 2013. The death toll reported in the Rana Plaza commercial building collapse was over 1,100 human lives and more than 2,500 injuries. Since this was one of the biggest tragedies that highlighted the insensitivity of high-end fashion retailers, April 24 was declared as the global Fashion Revolution Day to bring about a change in the consumerism that surrounds the fashion industry. This year too, a global campaign marked this occasion and fashion followers all over the world wore their clothes “inside out” asking fashion giants about “who made their clothes?” The campaign has gone viral on social sites and fashion conscious people are taking it forward with the hashtag #insideout in over 50 countries.
In India, Merunisha Moonilal, country coordinator India for Fashion Revolution Day, mentions how the seeds for this fashion revolution have already been sowed and within a year consumers in India will be asking ‘Who made my clothes?’ to their favourite retailers.
QueenieAustralia bridesmaid dresses
She says, “When we purchase a new garment, how many times do we ask who made the clothes? The condition of the workers, weavers and artisans are relatively unknown and consumers have no idea of the inhuman conditions they work in to produce the fashion epitomised by industry giants. In India, where the garment industry is one of the biggest industries, it is very important that we consider the growth of all those who are involved in the supply chain. From the cotton farmer to the industry worker, craftsman, everyone needs to get their due credit.”
Merunisha mentions how in India there are only a handful of designers and retailers who are transparent. She says, “There are very few designers like Rahul Mishra, Urvashi Kaur and board member of Fashion Revolution Day, No Nasties (www.nonasties.in) to name but a few, who include their artisans, weavers and production in their branding. There are many old-timers who still feel uncomfortable talking about their sources as they feel that their art would be stolen — but it is an illogical approach because no one can steal an idea that is yet to come. The invisible stakeholders in the fashion and textile supply chain deserve a voice. Fashion Revolution Day is a campaign aimed at changing the mindset by asking the consumer to become aware of what they are wearing and how it was made, thereby creating transparency.”
Designer Ashima Gandhi of Rati Collective agrees and says that she has lots to contribute in this fashion revolution. She opines, “I feel very sorry for all humans suffering from capitalist greed packed carefully in golden boxes and bought around the world. But it’s great that slowly but finally the industry is taking a sharp democratic turn. With increasing sensibility (globally), sustainable fashion is respected enough to encourage young, talented units to aim as high as the established ones. We get our hand-woven fabrics from various places like Kolkata, New Delhi, Lunkaransar, and our block-printed fabrics are made in Sanganer. I believe the process of ethical clothing begins with the choice of fabric. We interact with our customers through our designs, shoots and the story behind them.”
Whereas designer Mrinalini Gupta mentions, “From my perspective, it’s a designer’s (read any manufacturer’s) responsibility to follow the ethical process. The customers who will wear/use the product should know what they are wearing. This awareness needs to spread. Not many people question, but that can be changed.”
On the other hand, senior designer Neeru Kumar mentions that the consciousness about the design and development that goes behind creating a piece of wardrobe should come into light. She says, “Hand-weaving and traditional crafts are of utmost importance, as a design team we are careful that the dyes that we use are safe and environment-friendly. The craftspeople and their emotional and physical well-being is important to us, so we make sure they work in a good and positive environment, are paid fairly, their skills are promoted and work ethically.”
Rana Plaza tragedy made all of us question our sartorial choices, says Isha Gupta, stylist and blogger at thewardrobeofanomad, who is supporting this cause on her Instagram profile. She says, “It’s important to know who are these people who make our clothes. I’ve always had access to the best of international labels, but I make it a point to feature small-time designers or organic labels who do something different.”
Similarly, Ankur Talwar, stylist and media consultant, sums up, “As a responsible citizen and supporter of few brands, I would like to know who’s made my clothes and what’s their work hygiene. I’d shift my brand loyalty and won’t wear a piece of clothing that’s not ethically produced or has someone’s blood on it.”